The Very Best of the City and Suburbs!
|
|
|||||
| Home | Detroit Culture | Just for Kids | Fashion | Beauty | Modern Living |
| Contact Us | Food & Fun | Fine Dining | Dining Diversity | Casual Dining | Nightlife |
|
Fine Dining
Haute Cuisine |
SEAFOOD BIG FISH When a concept outlives its owner, chances are it has merit. Chuck Muer’s brainchild was this: Serve excruciatingly fresh, seductively prepared, moderately priced seafood, keep everything casual and treat each patron like a big fish and you’ve got a preordained success story. So it has been proven, and under the guidance of the Landry Restaurant chain Big Fish continues to provide a school of fresh catches daily and prepared to your liking—blackened, grilled, steamed, you know the story. Among the signature dishes, jambalaya and spicy shrimp are standouts, and likewise, the halibut Oscar. The cool-colored, jazzy dining room is a favorite of Ford employees. BIG FISH SEAFOOD BISTRO They used to be called Big Fish Too, but apparently nobody in Madison Heights had heard of the Dearborn archetype. It’s an ocean-sized warehouse for fresh, well-prepared seafood casually presented and wonderfully priced. Ron Rea soaked the interior with splashy colors and a trio of fish tanks big enough to sink the Bismarck, the Titanic and the Edmund Fitzgerald between courses. Upbeat, youthful and always hopping, Big Fish Seafood Bistro is a clever composite of trend and tradition. CHARLEY’S CRAB Less a landmark than a seamark. And what better vessel for fish than a flagship? The Muer empire of eats, now fifteen restaurants strong, has always put special focus on Troy’s super-blue, wood-paneled, jellyfish-chandeliered dining room. It’s hard not to be prejudiced in Troy Charley’s favor—after all, the place has been wowing Detroiters since Father Marquette was hauling carp from the river behind the fort. (Well, since 1976 anyway.) Halibut Oscar, bluefish pâté and, when in season, pliant and silky Copper River salmon offer a template of the Muer house style—a universe of food integrity and faultlessly fresh seafood along with an array of terrestrial treats. Now that the original Charley’s is an angel, it’s nice to see his legacy carried on. CITY KITCHEN Does it seem that perch tastes better the closer you are to water? Well, Chick Taylor's City Kitchen is just a few mansions away from the river, which (other than Chick formerly working for Joe Muer) may be the reason this "old guy favorite" is such a standout. Not that the restaurant or the menu is old guy by any means—they do the tuna rare (old guys eat it canned). The menu is heavy with seafood from fish and chips to halibut. Desserts are pleasing, the truffle cake, unlike revenge, served warm, will chill that cocoa jones. There are some steak and pork selections, some wrapped with bacon, which we all know is a little hard on old guy hearts, but fortunately there is plenty of red wine. FISHBONE’S RHYTHM KITCHEN CAFE 29244 Northwestern Hwy., Southfield 23722 Jefferson, St. Clair Shores If you’ve been thinking Fishbone’s is merely a Cajun place, try taking a step into the 21st century. Fishbone’s has one of the best lines (hooks and sinkers, too) on fresh fish in the metro area. When you are this popular, not only can you afford to be great, you have to be. There are steaks, salads, sandwiches and most of whatever else your heart may desire, but the seafood is a standout. The menu is loaded with underwater edibles, with across-the-board preparations from deep-fried to fancier presentations like seared ahi. Shellfish abound, they prepare shrimp more ways than anyone and live Maine lobsters and Alaskan king crab are always done to perfection. It’s a celebration of fish; there is even a full-on sushi bar—they could go fin to fin with Benihana. St. Clair Shores has a massive New Orleans–style courtyard complete with fireplace, gas lanterns and a huge bar—it is one of the most happening places in Michigan. HARBOR HOUSE RESTAURANT Clinton Township has the last remaining Harbor House, a unique all-you-can eat area seafood chain that was abundant in the days of polyester. It’s not just fried fish, they have scallops, frog legs, lobster, crab and prime rib for you landlubbers. Prices vary, depending on the entrée, but seem to be around or just over what you might pay for not-all-you-can eat. Once you settle on your dish, you can get endless platefuls of whatever costs the same or less, unless of course that dish is lobster, which is the priciest, and they will limit you to two whole lobsters but endless crab and whatever else you want from the menu. HAUCHINANGO GRILL They call it the Gulf of Mexico for a reason—you are more likely to find fish on authentic Mexican menus than a ground beef taco. The restaurant above Los Galanes specializes in seafood, but since you can get the same menu downstairs, you probably haven’t been up. Either way, you’ll get great fish with succulent Latin American presentations. Of course there is the whole red snapper, which directly translates as hauchinango. There’s a lot of camarones (shrimp); try ’em with cactus or as a chilled starter with avocado in a snappy tomato base, a simple yet remarkable dish. The ceviche is excellente, as lime juice cooks much more delicately than the flame. THE HILL SEAFOOD & CHOP HOUSE The “hill of perch” is just one of the signatures you’ll love at this exceptional Grosse Pointe restaurant. The Hill is one of the very best places for seafood in the metro area. All of the seafood comes fresh daily from Foley’s of Boston, except for the local fish, which come straight from various Michigan fisheries. It’s a made-from-scratch kitchen and they start the day with about 12 different fresh fish specials. Over half of the appetizers are aquatic in origin (go for the seared ahi). You can almost always get Dover sole (served in the classic style) and can never miss with surf & turf or the shrimp scampi. IVANHOE CAFÉ Drink in the history at Detroit’s legendary Polish Yacht Club. Famous for fried fish and being landlocked. You’ll find the perfect perch here and all the accoutrements that make it even better, like big sloppy piles of homemade coleslaw, dill pickles and booze. KRUSE & MUER Continually packing them in with high-end sea treats and a boater-bar atmosphere (even though the closest water would be Water Street). It must be Kruse because Muers are generally so demure. LILY’S SEAFOOD Some of the hottest ways to serve our cold-blooded Darwinian ancestors come out of the kitchen at this funky R.O. microbrewery. Lily’s can swim with just about any fine fish house in the area—from fancy feasts to salmon pastrami. Perfect for Royal Oak, where money and mayhem often sit side by side. MCCORMICK & SCHMICK’S In the shadow of Somerset is one of the chains we won’t grouse about. It’s pretty much a rule that if you make salt, seasoning salt or are a spice company, you have to own a high-dollar chain restaurant. McCormick’s skipped the cow and went to the sea. Forget fresh daily—how ’bout fresh twice daily? You’ll be impressed with any choice you make. MERIWETHER’S ?Meriwether’s seems to be the forgotten Muer—most likely because there isn’t a Muer or Charley in the name. Fashioned to look like Ye Olde Country Inn, it has been a Telegraph landmark for over 15 years. It has undergone a modern makeover inside with a flashy Ron Rea design. There’s meat on the menu, but it is the many friends of Aquaman who make the inn spin. The raw bar, a weighty selection of creative and traditional shellfish and lots of fresh fish specials make this a Muerfect destination. Yes, they still have the little teacup rolls with that sweet honey butter. MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 117 Willits, Birmingham The culinary king of Columbus, Cameron Mitchell, is getting his hooks into area diners with his 300-seat fish markets. On the high end of the seafood chain, this is not your pull-it-out-of-the-freezer franchise. Fish is flown in daily from both coasts (they guarantee freshness) with over 80 different selections, if you count by species of oyster. The salmon comes cedar-roasted, the yellow fin comes hoisin-glazed and the award-winning lobster bisque comes in either a cup or bowl, by a first-class waiter (who probably recommended it). MOE’S ON TEN This place used to be Leon’s, a family diner-type joint until, well, we don’t know, maybe Moe hit the lottery or something. The digs are swanked-out with wood and marble and the menu is on the upside of the scale. Basically, what you expect when you seek a good piece of fish. NORTHERN LAKES SEAFOOD COMPANY High volume is good when it comes to ever-so-fresh. That’s one reason this big room inside the Radisson Hotel is always hopping. A lot of fresh fish specials get caught in the Unique Restaurant Corp’s net each day, so the choices are plentiful and change often. It’s open and airy with a Wine Spectator–quality wine list and a clever kitchen that came up with both a Rueben and a Cobb salad chock full of lobster. Especially good since you can get it at lunch when it’s cheap. PORTOFINO Wyandotte’s best restaurant has a huge menu, featuring everything from nachos to escargot—and that’s just for starters. Portofino does seafood especially well—because you’re dining with a view of the Detroit River (not that they would serve any fish from there), it’s just common sense that a restaurant on water had better have good seafood. Which they do—better than any number of “seafood” restaurants. Just about everything else is on the menu, too; they do it all well. Portofino is best enjoyed in the summer on the deck when the Detroit River is at its sparkliest, preferably reached via big expensive boat at their dock. SEA GRILLE A big and shapely interior combined with the mutant seahorse statues gives it a decidedly casual Floribbean feel. Much cooler than the owner’s last digs, Ocean Grille, which in addition to being one of the hardest restaurants to find in Birmingham, had a somewhat matronly ambience. Like the Ocean Grill, there is nothing lacking in the seafood selection. From tried and true to more adventurous sea food platings, you'll find the lakes and sea well repped on this bill of fish, and anyone who serves that cruel freshwater predator, the pickerel, is all right by us. The duck is a signature. Why, because they swim. SINBAD’S Boaters can pull up and walk right in, or you can take the less scenic route from Jefferson Ave. Sinbad’s is a Detroit institution, where seafood is number one and everything else is just as good. The menu, with its kitschy retro feel, puts the bounty of the sea at your fingertips. You can’t go wrong with the perch, fried scallops, crab or anything else that once swam and now comes with a side of coleslaw. There’s something for you landlubbers as well, like steaks, pork chops, prime rib and sandwiches. They invented the Bullshot here, which is vodka au jus (from the prime rib). If that doesn’t get your sea legs back, nothing will. STREETSIDE SEAFOOD Small joint with a HUGE rep. Those in the know knew so before the Food Network bestowed them with “Best of” status. Rightly so, with the think tank behind Beverly Hills Grill taking us for a swim—virtually every thing on the menu is a standout fish. Chef Sharon Juergens is clever, her style pushes convention, yet respects it; in other words, she creates perfect modern meals. From pan-fried to Pan Asian, world and local influences abound, occasionally colliding on the same plate. You really should make the journey to the seafood Mecca at least once in your life. THIRD WAVE SEAFOOD & CHOP HOUSE There is something about walking in through a fish market that makes you think the restaurant has got to have some damn fresh fish. They do; in fact, the owner tries to buy it as close to the boat as possible because he doesn’t have much use for [expletive deleted] middlemen. In addition to a menu loaded with the bounty of the ocean, you’ll find a sushi bar offering many of the same selections untouched by flame. It’s all part of what happens when entrepreneurial spirit is combined with a bit of “foodie” smarts—and no pretentions. Third is worth the drive to Oxford, even from Downriver in a 1973 Pinto with bad shocks and no air. TOM’S OYSTER BAR A generation ago, Tom Brandel brought the best of East Coast seaside dining to Detroit and created an empire. Known for fresh, hand-cut seafood, lobster deals, sushi and always the best bivalves in town, Tom’s has become legendary for stellar sea creatures. Tom’s of Rochester Hills, the latest addition to the saga, is a juiced-up, swanked-out evolution of the oyster house. High ceilings and window walls make this an upscale and airy version of the classic seafood tavern, much more airy when the windows roll up in warm weather and bring the outside in. GM Leonard Jump makes sure the service is top notch and the food is everything you expect and maybe even more; there is now an Italian accent thanks to the acquisition of four-diamond executive chef Daniele Dell’Acqua and dining room manager Rito Lisi (both formerly of Il Posto). © 2008 Guide to Detroit, LLC |