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CONTEMPORARY ANDIAMO NOVI If the Andiamo Restaurant group is a family, the Novi scion is the impossibly cosmo cousin that everybody wants to hang with. 23,000 square feet of haute restaurant slick, the menu is all-Italian but with an avant-garde edge and displays the quality standard that follows owner Joe Vicari and Corporate Chef Aldo Ottavianni wherever they set up shop. Of course, just when you think they might start taking themselves too seriously, guffaws from the adjacent Second City comedy club filter in. Along with the adjacent Dirty Martini Lounge, the complex offers front-row seats to the legendary trio: eat, drink and be merry. ASSAGGI MEDITERRANEAN BISTRO This self-styled bistro has received high culinary accolades from both critics and diners for their dishes’ inventively blended flavors from the entire coast of the Mediterranean—covering Europe to the Middle East. The thematic intrepidity of the place is nowhere better represented than in the menu, where, in place of the hide worn headings of Appetizers and Entrées, lists Amuse and Innovations, which pretty much sums up Assaggi’s vanguard approach toward meals. Both the small and large plates are filled with fascinating dishes like pan-seared scallops in orange-vanilla sauce and sea bass with tahini, which is endlessly ethereal and elegant. Didn’t think we’d ever see linens and things in a Ferndale storefront, but $ always follows the hip crowd. BEANS AND CORNBREAD: A SOULFUL BISTRO Inspired by the cooking of his Southern forbears, proprietor and long-time restaurant guy Patrick Coleman serves an array of upscale soul dishes with the help of his sharp and loyal staff. The requisites are there: fried chicken, smothered pork chops and, of course, red beans and fresh cornbread, but everything with the high-toned touch of Chef John Arnold. BEVERLY HILLS GRILL The idea-conscious and supremely friendly hosts of Beverly Hills Grill were the first to see the future of dining: trippy, trendy, loud, fresh and delicious. In an era when Les Gruber was still hanging on to cholesterol dreams and downtown dinosaurs, they had already begun shaking up the local dining scene in Beverly Hills crusting sea bass with cashews and whapping whitefish with chutney. Spawned was a generation of Beverly Hills Grillbillies. Chalkboard specials still rule at this hyper-charged California-creative landmark, and lines worthy of a Moscow vodka-hunt creep out the front door every Sunday at brunch time. BOOCOO Detroit’s culinary elite fell in love with this place from day one, an Italian/French bistro fusion that was contemporary enough for scenesters and elegant enough for gourmands. The restaurant quickly snagged HOUR Detroit’s prestigious Restaurant of the Year award. The menu is kind of classic Euro-style with a creative American presentation, like the restaurant itself, which feels clubby and modern at the same time, it has that comfortable “old friend” feel every time you dine. BRANDON’S INTERNATIONAL CUISINE An eastside secret so surreptitious most eastsiders don’t even know about it. Décor is a bit of a throwback to the old “Ye Olde” Tudor-themed suburban restaurants of the ’70s, but with a modern menu that reflects the tastes of chef-owner, Brandon Kahlich (who must have born right around the time those places were rocking). As befits the young but Van Dyke Place-trained chef, his plates are courageous and impressive. Lots of fresh fish, seared chops, inventive accompaniments and fabulous desserts. CAFÉ ZOLA A Café Zola experience is a full-tilt gastro-intellectual gestalt. Inspired by French cooking, they named it after French writer Emile Zola simply because he was French—note, they opted against Café Pepé Le Pew, which would have made as much sense. But within the space, a study in cool, minimalist, exposed-brick elegance, there’s an unbeatable mix of gravitas and excitement. From humble to haute, brunch waffles to edgy cult dishes at dinnertime, Zola offers pur market cuisine: organic produce, dairy, eggs, poultry, meat and seafood with regional elements well in hand; the chimichuri was as good as we’ve had anywhere, and the Asian-flavored snapper, baked in parchment, excelled. The wine list is sprinkled with boutique varietals, and the inventive cocktail list covers every angle. CHEN CHOW BRASSERIE Birmingham’s most beautiful restaurant, this Asian anomaly also became the liveliest. Designer/co-owner John Janviriya is in top form, best experienced during your short walk through the tiled circular entrance to one of the most spectacular multi-leveled, bold banqueted dining rooms we’ve seen—anywhere. It would be enough to just soak up the scenery, were it not for the recent addition of Chef Robert Courser, who now puts the chow in Chen. A stardom destined chef with a hands-in approach (he dives into the dining room), not only does he personally cook the Kobe, Courser does so on your tabletop on an oven fired river rock (if you order the Japanese, they also have a less expensive American version). The entire East meets West menu is studded with standouts, the presentations are well thought out, and four-star style desserts cap off the evening. There is also a sushi bar; we suggest the criminally refreshing Zen Maki (a translucent slice of tuna, king crab, and tilapia in a cucumber wrap, and splurge on the real wasabi). COACH INSIGNIA A room with a view, about 360 degrees of Detroit and Windsor from an unparalleled 72 stories. This steakhouse in the sky boasts Stockyard aged beef—you can top it with a variety of high end garni such as foie, blue cheese, lobster or crab and bernaise. The seafood is just as vital, so we recommend the “ultimate surf & turf,” filet mignon topped with king crab in bernaise sauce and a wild mushroom sauté. They aren’t afraid to shake it up in the kitchen, and it is dramatically played out all over the menu. For starters, there are short-rib martinis and Maine lobster corn dogs ($5,000 award-winning corn dogs at that), amid Asian inspired and traditional apps. Follow that with some pretty special soups and salads and you’ll know why Matt Prentice is, well, the Matt Prentice Restaurant Group. CRAVE Clean, sleek, and modern, Crave illustrates the difference between design and décor. That difference is in the details—the minimalist white dining room, the tiled bar and the chill clustered couches create a room of expansive beauty that transports you out of Dearborn-bleak into an A-list locale we’ll call Craveland. The food proves Crave is more than just another pretty facade. We were blown away by the complex sushi rolls and the miso-kissed black cod was perfectly cooked. Executive Chef Dan Nguyen is a wonder, with a stellar resumé that includes a stint at Matsuhisa (as in Nobu Matsuhisa’s Beverly Hills flagship). Nguyen is fluent in both Pan-Asian and Mediterranean cuisines, and the Californian coastal creativity he brings to the table shines. Fusion, factored with top shelf ingredients (as in king crab, not k-rab), innovation, and magazine-cover plating have a degree of sophistication that is all too rare in these parts. The menu is a mix, designed to fill or fuel, from incredible sushi and small plates to full on entrées like lamb chops and filet mignon. Ground zero for glitterati—if you come late, the volume goes up and Crave transforms into a club, taking dine and dance to new levels. CONGRESS One of the best-looking restaurants in Detroit, the artfully lit basement lounge is decked out in Jetsons furniture mixed with Flintstone-era natural materials, lending a classic Cranbrook style to the rooms. You’ll find Congress somewhere in limbo between a nightclub and a restaurant, which makes for a great clientele, even if they are drinking rather than enjoying the food that is as contemporary as the environs. CUISINE At an age when most kids are still deciding what to be when they grow up, Paul Grosz was heading up the kitchen at the Whitney, one of Detroit’s premiere landmark restaurants. Now he’s set up shop opposite the Fisher Building in digs somewhat less palatial but still sumptuous, and he presents an impressive menu that shows how satisfactorily he’s matured, both in terms of palate and his ability to juxtapose shapes, textures, and colors. Colorado lamb rack with Moroccan spices and potato garlic custard, duck leg confit with purple mashed potatoes and rosemary-blood orange glaze, sirloin of beef with potatoes and chanterelle sauce and roasted Alaskan halibut with scallion juice over watercress with asparagus custard display his prowess: scrupulously updated classical cooking that explores and exploits multi-tiered textures and flavors. DIAMOND JIM BRADY’S BISTRO With apologies to Diamond Jim, whose original Northwest Detroit joint built its legend around a hamburger, the Brady of merit in this bunch is Chef Mary, who has turned the legend into legacy. The Novi Diamond Jim’s still looks like a strip mall tavern, but Mary’s hungry heart has ensured countless culinary twists on the old tried-and-true along with a roster of her own signatures like chicken Isabella and salmon ravioli. Yeah, the burger is still available, and so is the chili, for those who’d prefer to watch the rear view instead of the road ahead. eve eve is very contemporary, which you probably figured out when you saw the name spelled in lower case. She is also wine savvy; somebody has been partying with the wine reps because the extensive but not always expensive list has a lot of room temp research. Arty minimalist design like a Tribeca gallery—mainly brick wall and rafters, so you can focus on her artful presentation of the food. A wine bar adjoins. FIDDLEHEADS Nothing makes an event restaurant more of an event than a smart lunch. And no one does a smarter lunch than Fiddleheads. Chef Tim Voss, a veteran of both Tribute and Forte, has found the perfect venue for his bold yet accessible riffs on contemporary American cuisine. Voss is a prickly perfectionist with a craftsman’s instinct for honest creative expression. He designs his menu with the seasons, letting nature set the agenda for your palate. Spring’s English pea soup with gingerbread croutons cedes to summer’s gazpacho. Winter’s venison loin relinquishes its place to spring’s chipotle-marinated strip steak. The bright, open room, complete with a flagstone wall, invites business and pillow talk alike. The grande dames of Southfield who used to frequent Anne Sayles Dining Room are still coming. You should too. FIVE Gimme Five! Set in the elegant setting of metro Detroit’s luxury boutique hotel, the Inn at St. Johns, Five promises a true culinary and dining experience set against the backdrop of metro Detroit's premier international hotel, golf course and conference center. Inspired eclectic American cuisine created by the executive chef is served in a stylish and contemporary room with a casually elegant ambiance. They have an impressive wine list and chic, sophisticated martini lounge as well as an outdoor terrace, open in season. In addition to great dining and 118 elegant, comfortable sleeping rooms, this extraordinary venue offers a remarkable tableau for weddings and receptions, corporate conferences, special events and golf outings. FORTE In what should be the greatest restaurant location short of 46th Street in Manhattan (and in spite of its steady stream of loyal and appreciative patrons) Forte refuses to take a deep breath and simply exist. Since opening, with a celebrity chef beneath the executive toque (Keith Famie), Forte’s reputation has grown hyper-kinetically and exponentially; now it’s Tim Voss directing the show and introducing bright young culinary talent to the scene. A daily-revised menu can include such beguiling creations as pumpkin seed-crusted venison and roast duck breast with salsify and pinot noir gastrique. Décor is at once comfortable and chic and the crowd’s a who’s who of up-and-comers. GALA Reality bites, and at Gala, reality is bites—cool ones, hot ones, and a category defined as ‘Chef’s Bites.’ The concept is share-fare appetizers, the venue is a charming grotto beneath the historic Cook Building (appropriately named) in downtown Farmington, and the chef who brings it all together is Jeff Condit. His tapas-style menu includes mini tureens of soup, countless savories and ‘Sweet Shots,’ which are Triple Crown desserts. Flavors show Condit’s knack at subtlety and understatement, this in an era when both are out of season in many kitchens. The lean basement aesthetic lends itself to live jazz performances, which is, in fact, a weekend Gala fixture. GRAVITY A way westside instant classic. Try shrimp cocktail with just the right blend of tradition and imagination, jumbo crab cakes with not a bit of filler, plated with creamy risotto or mouth-watering Tuscan steak (the recipe discovered in Italy on owner Jim’s travels). Well worth the drive. HARD ROCK CAFE DETROIT Peter Morton’s 1971 paean to musical subculture pretty much changed the way America dined. Hard Rock almost single-handedly invented what would become eat-ertainment. At the same time they raised the bar on bar food, creative plating and generally creating dishes that people would return for. A floor-to-ceiling stained glass mural pervades the modern room, the multi-color theme carried through with the dramatic lighting behind the bar, natural floors of wood and stone, creating a museum type environ which sets the stage. The stars of this show are the displays of musical memorabilia—here there is a special emphasis on Detroit’s vital contribution to music culture. IRIDESCENCE The MotorCity Casino’s foray into fine dining. Master Chef Michael Russell and Executive Chef Lucio built a reputation for strong presentation, earning the restaurant a coveted four-diamonds from AAA with entrées as artful as they are delectable. An apposite selection of premium cuts as well as a respectful collection of seafood give chefs the chance to show off their certified titles. There are almost a dozen desserts, including soufflés, tableside flambé and the signature Kaboom!—a rich chocolate cone filled with an assortment of mousses. The restaurant welcomes the casually dressed, and has a section for those who prefer more formal attire. IT’S A MATTER OF TASTE Even without the refreshing view and lakefront ambience, it’s worth your investment. The menu contains an all-star lineup of creative American—which is to say it is a melting pot infused with flavors and finds and four-star aspirations from everywhere. A powerhouse menu highlighted with assertive sides and accompaniments harmonize with the well-heeled entrées. From the flavorful fruity risotto with the medium rare Muscovy to the thoroughly welcomed indulgence of truffle and morel in the scaloppini with dumpling, it suits our taste. J. BALDWIN’S RESTAURANT When Jeff Baldwin departed the Whitney and opened his own joint, he took his knowledge and skills but left the formality downtown. It’s a modern casual place where burgers (Angus) and pizza (gourmet) sit side by side with lemon sesame-seared ahi and chicken Oscar. Baldwin jazzes up ordinary pub grub with higher end ingredients and his supernatural chef sense to create dishes that were innovative and tasty enough to earn him Macomb County’s Best Chef title. The calamari is legendary, and the Kobe flatiron steaks are out of this world. If you have an insatiable sugar jones, head straight for Baldwin’s knockout dessert roster: house-made ice cream and crème brulée, bananas Foster crème puffs or chocolate fudge lava cake. Or take it home—they are as much carryout as dine-in. JEREMY RESTAURANT & BAR Crisp, chic, austere, rich, luxuriant—and now a little more casual, Jeremy covers all angles. Meals here have surprising inflections—pan-roasted mahi-mahi is presented atop red lentils and drizzled with a carrot-orange vinaigrette, for example, and a simple spinach salad may get dressed up with peaches or plums. The décor is defiant, both sleek and sophisticated—a great visual to offset the boatload of seen-and-heard patrons who seem to have latched on to this place as a gossip marketplace. The place resonates with humor, tenues de soirée and yap-power. Tag-team service reminiscent of a Danny Meyer experience is knowledgeable and enthusiastic. Jeremy’s intellectual manipulations are heavy on local ingredients and technique-driven preparations, many of which will have you saying, “Oh, so that’s what (fill in the blank) is supposed to taste like.” Tack on a casual attitude and a cost structure that’s surprisingly affordable and how can you not be hooked? KRUSE & MUER ON MAIN The brisk banter of local glitterati rises above a backdrop of brick and mahogany-stained woodwork. Add to the equation a menu laden with upscale comfort food like sherry-kissed seafood chowder and steaming house-baked breads and you have a solid, streamlined, supremely comfortable restaurant where a pair of faded jeans or a C-note-priced cravat is equally appropriate. Daily-delivered fresh fish ensures top-notch quality, and the service is straightforward and ultra-cheery, as befits Rochester—which is really just a small town that’s grown up. LOVING SPOONFUL The walls of the undulating dining room are hung with startling, whimsical, contemporary artwork—fork portraits, for example, titled “Spoon.” Stage set, charismatic chef Shawn rises to the occasion; his flavors are earthy, exuberant and elevated. The charm of Southern family recipes is enriched by the addition of sudden unsuspected depths of flavor. Perfect example? The wonderfully succulent lemon sole with caramelized shallots, Boursin cheese and Cognac lobster sauce. Scrupulously loyal to the food, Chef Shawn leads a staff that’s lighthearted and efficient, and who will encourage you toward certain menu items—meatloaf with buttermilk mashed potatoes, pistachio-crusted whitefish, house-smoked baby back ribs with barbecue sauce—and the aromatic, steaming ciabetta bread that sits at the center of each table like a carbo lodestar. MELANGE We now believe in intelligent design. John Janviriya already was our favorite restaurant designer (Crave, Congress, Mosaic); with Mélange he becomes a favorite restaurateur. The subterranean space is impressive, innovative and inviting. Form meets function in every room; natural elements (stone, bamboo) fuse perfectly with impeccable modern touches, a showpiece glass wine room divides the space, separating the dining area (with cozy booths recessed into the walls), from the bar, whose backlit onyx surface blankets the room in gentle golden light. There is nothing ordinary here—including the menu. Chef John Weiszer spent years working in San Francisco, Italy and Thailand and it all ends here. Weiszer classifies it as Eurasian Eclectic; we call it an amazing fusion of culture and cuisine that makes every entrée special. The menu is planned and exciting, showcasing the ?flavors of the orient as well as the Mediterranean. A variety of standouts appear, the gingerly prepared seafood (sea bass, snapper) is sublime and the chops are as good as you’ll get at any platinum steakhouse at a fraction of the investment. Don’t miss our nomination for appetizer of the year: the River Rock, a tasty interactive dish of steak that you cook on a hot seasoned rock at your table. MODERN FOOD & SPIRITS You may know Kim and Francis Stanton, former owners of Deluxe downtown (as well as a host of stints at A-list restaurants). Their new place is a hybrid of a diner and a white tablecloth. DIY mid-century modern décor, funky greens and muddled earth tones, that kind of 1962 atomic age look Nick at Nite is so fond of. The ingredients here are fresh, and we mean both kinds, there is imagination on the menu. Apps are all priced the same, and for 6 bucks the shitake crepe was outta site. Likewise, sandwiches are swanky affairs here, except for the $8 price tag. Main courses are even more adventurous: a half duck was plated with berries, pistachios and a fruity squeeze-bottle swirl just like the big time. A hearty short rib dinner was likewise priced and while more rooted in vegetables, was just as expertly sauced and sided. Best of all, entrées come with salad, and not just any salad, they let you choose from the salad list, a choice which includes spinach and bibb. It only looks dry, there is a full bar and a decent selection of wines by the glass. MON JIN LAU Ever heard the term “Chinergy?” That’s because it doesn’t exist. But if it did, it would refer to generations of Chins who (since 1969) have steadily raised the bar on Detroit’s perception of Chinese restaurants. Iconoclasts? Well, such rule-structured businesses aren’t really supposed to have wine lists, are they? So naturally, they put together what’s not only one of the top lists in Michigan, but one that’s absolutely suited, bottle by bottle, to Mon Jin Lau’s cuisine. Speaking of which, they refer to their stylistic, elegant, sophisticated groove as Nu Asian Fusion—another term which, incidentally, didn’t used to exist—and covers such vivacious variations on a theme as soft shell crab with cilantro and seared sea scallops in corn-chili sauce. The welcome addition of Michael Byrum to the floor adds polish to the service, and Mr. Kim has taken their sushi bar to new heights. MOSAIC RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE The newest, coolest looking restaurant in Detroit—John Janviriya is officially the area’s hottest designer. There is a balance of bright and muted colors, curves and straight lines, too edgy to be retro, too comfy to be modern. The theatrics of the water running down the walls, the arty centerpiece lighting in the domed ceiling over the central bar—it has that Blade Runner blend of all things, as creative, hip and inviting as any room we’ve seen in the outside world. The menu is just as vanguard—you’ve seen the seafood, meats and poultry before, but not prepared like this. The state of this art uses world flavors on the palette and mixes them up like a DJ. The appetizer assortment is huge, a melting pot of over a dozen, where fondue, foie gras and the insanely tasty crab crêpe have a hard time standing out given all the interesting choices. The rest of the menu follows the same big flavor pattern, with the occasional respites to tradition (like the Alaskan crab legs). An amazing debut. RATTLESNAKE CLUB There is a reason Jimmy Schmidt is Detroit’s most famous chef. A true innovator, he ranks among the great, the first wave of chefs who inspired the way we eat today. When Schmidt started the ‘Snake he had to innovate—there was no Food Network or Internet, this was uncharted territory. Most of the rest of the world is still catching up to Jimmy Schmidt. There would not be a contemporary category in this publication if it were not for convention defying trails blazed decades ago by chefs like Jimmy. The Rattlesnake is so perfectly contemporary its original menu would still be fresh in the now, and Schmidt’s palate has never stopped growing. It’s about local sustainable foods as well as exotic flavors, extraordinary quality and magical combinations. You’ll find the best plates in the D served in this magnificent room on the Riverfront. RONIN One of the best new restaurants to open in the Detroit area, Ronin has it all—great food, lively dining and plenty of ambiance. Ronin is much more than a great sushi bar. Amidst an interior of rough-cut cedar walls, columns and gentle bamboo, Ronin goes beyond the cliché décor and creates something new and exciting—much like the menu itself. This is the top of the food chain. Matthew Dalton's (Fiddleheads, Townsend) Asian fusion entrées are as exciting and flavorful as any modern hotspot. The menu, dotted with hard-to-find and high dollar ingredients (usually organic) makes for tough dining decisions—it all looks good. Humble lettuce wraps are divine, we suggest trying the black cod. Why? Explorer George Mallory said, "Because it's there." You won't find this delightful fish on most other menus in Detroit. Ronin is one of a handful of restaurants that have a sense of discovery on the menu and, more importantly, the tasteicals to back it up. Three sauces for a shrimp tempura so succulent it could stand alone, the buttery richness of the Kobe beef sliders and a mind-blowing sushi menu, which make for seemingly infinite small plate combinations. Entrées are just as imaginative, carefully seasoned proteins are perfectly matched with creative sides that elevate the course (do not miss the black rice risotto and diver scallop pairing). Desserts, usually the weakest course on an Asian table, transcend, from the Zen-like geometry of the gluten-free white and dark chocolate cake to the strangely haunting sesame ice cream. SELDOM BLUES Perched above the picturesque Detroit River, Seldom Blues is turn-of-the-21st Century Motown—a sleek, sophisticated, post-meltdown experience. Proud of its roots and true to the city’s heritage as a jazz center and influential world capital, entrepreneur Frank Taylor and Chef Jerry Nottage—nee Parkway Grille and Sweet Georgia Brown notoriety—have forged a riverfront bistro in the tradition of old school supper clubs. The ‘face’ of the fandango is ex-Lion Robert Porche (frequently seen milling about the dining room among Detroit society notables) and flautist Alexander Zonjic, who often takes the stage, as do many of the most talented artists in the nation. But the kitchen is the true headliner, casting forth a sweeping scope of entrées, including signature Lobster Pontchartrain (which can be had in duo with lamb chops), barbecued bass with vidalia onion hash and braised short ribs—everything down-home, but suitably gentrified. Service is pro and without self-consciousness; Seldom Blue’s location in the Wintergarden of the Renaissance Center is doubly appropriate since in the downtown restaurant renaissance, it’s leader of the pack. So much, it was honored by the Detroit Free Press as the restaurant of the year. SHIRAZ We look at Shiraz as a “best of” the corporation now known as Matt Prentice, boasting a menu that’s both sophisticated and approachable—there’s enough beef to call it a steakhouse, yet at the same time it’s well-rounded enough to include exotic, Asian-inspired seafood dishes. The wine list is a compelling catalog of perfectly appropriate, wonderful cuvées, thanks to the master sommelier, Ms. Madeline Triffon. SHIRO This cultural dichotomy is a favored spot under the radar of the hoi polloi. Melded into a pillared 1920s-era Novi mansion, this white house offers a fusion of Japanese with French. Inside you’re greeted by a grand staircase and perhaps the accommodating Mr. Shin. The dining rooms are intimate and traditional, with one dominated by a sushi bar. The appetizers and entrées flip from Japanese to Continental, rack of lamb is on the money and the sushi ranks with the best around. Ask your server which Bordeaux goes best with belly fin. SMALL PLATES Downtown hit has an encore in Royal Oak. The idea here is unsuper-sized entrées, which you share with your table. (Sharing means giving some of what you have to others, a concept unfamiliar to many people.) We certainly don’t mind eating the entire plate ourselves, especially with the succulent lamb chops with three separate sauces—we could never give one away, even on a trade for panko shrimp. Possibly for a decent chunk of filet, but we might order that as well—Small Plates has a price point such that you can afford two main courses. There are a lot of fun eats on this menu—it’s a melting pot of cuisines, with more than a smattering of influences from the culinary world map. Some of the favorites for communal or personal consumption are the light and crunchy spring rolls, ribs slathered in house barbecue sauce and panko crab cakes, which are kind of far Eastern seaboard meets the Far East. STEVE AND ROCKY’S Everybody loves Steve and Rocky’s. Sophisticated yet casually cool, the place defines what modern fine dining is all about. Created by two of the best-pedigreed chefs in the area, the ever-evolving menu and specials (that are indeed special) keep it fresh. Food-forward thinking elevates each dish to something of an art form; flavor is in this house. Classics such as perch (with shiitake and spinach) and even the lowly chicken (house-smoked with fresh-made noodles and brie) are refined with inspired kitchen wizardry. They advise you to order the chocolate ganache when you place your dinner order—so do we. SWEET GEORGIA BROWN By the time Sweet Georgia Brown entered Detroit’s dining lexicon in 2001, the concept—fine dining drenched with Dixie accents—awoke many Motown palates, especially those whose notion of Southern flavors was a bit shortsighted. It re-opened with a revamped menu in 2006, but Chef Jerry Nottage retained the signature favorites (crab cakes, fried lobster and an array of peach-centric desserts) while introducing tony temptations like Cornmeal Crusted Sea Bass and Veal Loin Scaloppini. It is a hip and sophisticated room; a sweet geometric design plays off the eye while live jazz plays to your ears. SWEET LORRAINE’S 17100 N. Laurel Park, Livonia 333 E. Jefferson, Detroit For over 20 incredible years, Sweet L’s has been one of the area’s original artsy “nouvelle-type” restaurants, and they have most of the city’s “best of” awards to prove it. Food-forward is the best way to describe Chef Lorraine’s world-beat eats and she’s always been on the tip—make that ahead—of the curve. Lorraine’s flavors are inspired by the world, which she applies ever so inventively to her creative American cuisine. It’s a voluminous selection on the menu; you can never go wrong with the pecan chicken, which, after 20 years, we have to bestow the “legendary” title on. Lorraine started out as a pastry chef, and her desserts continue to impress to excess. The Marriott hotel locations have the same airy, artsy feel of the original model, and more important, the same, always on, always satisfying menu. TOWN TAVERN Bill Roberts continues to define 21st century dining in this area. Like his other operations, Beverly Hills Grill and Streetside Seafood, the Town Tavern exceeds expectations. The perfect combination of quality, creativity, and coolness—and yeah, you can factor in prices that don’t leave you gasping. Just as he brought the West Coast to Michigan, he kind of brings that chef savvy non-pretentious new East Coast (did someone say Gramercy) vibe with Town Tavern, a lively spot that just happens to have incredible food. Designed to look like a ‘30s joint by the renowned designer Ron Rea, the Town has that comfortable been-around-forever feel, half the reason it is already so many people’s favorite spot. We’ll give the remaining 50% to Chef Patrick Roettele, whose fare is way beyond fair; he turns up the volume on old standbys and makes them his—the lobster mac and cheese has already become a signature, tacos are taqueria authentica—soft-skinned, cilantro-sprinkled and served with what we have come to know as guacamole juice, but the Town version is beefed-up, filled with succulent short rib meat. Like every Bill Roberts restaurant, they do it right and then they innovate. There are steaks, seafood, salads and plenty of small plates for sharing, grazing and generally having the good time this place was created for. TRAFFIC JAM & SNUG “Snug” is the operative word here; nowhere else in the noisy, sometimes intimidating sprawl of downtown do you feel more comfortable, secure and welcomed. This unique corner joint south of the Wayne State campus has been evolving for more than 30 years. It’s now a restaurant that combines some of the best features of a brewpub, dairy and bakery to produce a varied and delicious menu as diverse as the clientele. Everybody goes to TJ’s; the demographic defies stereotyping. Beer, bread, cheese, pastries and ice cream are all done on premise, setting them apart from the blight of mass-market chains and just about every other restaurant on the planet. The kitchen can turn out anything—comfort food, world cuisine, creative muses—sometimes on the same plate. They won a Wine Spectator award for their stellar selection of vino, which is about the only thing they don’t make themselves. TRIBUTE One of Detroit’s top restaurants? Get real. This is one of the nation’s best according to The New York Times. And Zagat. And Gourmet Magazine. Always evolving, ever vigilant to detail and peerless presentations, this flagship of the Epoch Group can now claim a decade-plus of kudo-capturing operation, virtually unheard of in restaurants of this caliber. Now they are open for lunch, offering exceptional eating at low prix fixes. VIA NOVE There are two chefs named Joe Beato at this hip Ferndale Italian eatery. The senior Joe is best known for Il Centro, a sorely missed Detroit gem. The second Joe is his nephew, who cooked professionally in Rome. Together, they have compiled an incredible menu of contemporary central and southern Italian dishes in one of the coolest-looking settings in the area. The food is an exquisite mix of the familiar and new. A fabulous appetizer assortment (we loved the seafood cocktail) starts you on the right track. Entrées are truly special; pastas that could only be made in house are teamed with shellfish and carnivoria. It is a very sophisticated yet simple approach, all complemented with amazing sauces and perfectly balanced with creative and culturally correct sides. Desserts are beautiful and delicious; and that chocolate molten cake with candied walnuts and pistachio ice cream is worth every single calorie. VINOLOGY Kristin Jonna’s love affair with wine is in her blood, probably way off the Intoxometer. The Jonna family, of course, has been synonymous with retail wine in Michigan for decades, and Kristin’s twin forays into on-premise include Royal Oak’s lauded Vinotecca as well as the newer Vinology in Ann Arbor. The wine-bar concept, still finding a foothold in the United States, is generally most successful when tied in with a first-class kitchen; and Vinology does not disappoint. The menu, more or less in the trattor“a idiom, is inspired by spectacular local produce and appears egged on by a clientele with an appetite for experimentation. Cobb salad is morphed with lobster and champagne vinaigrette, poÕboy sandwiches get rich boy treatment with pistachio crusted shrimp while main courses are funky and sexy—braised pork shoulder with bosc pears, spicy lamb rack with truffled bread pudding, duck breast with Cognac-infused French toast. Fifty wines by the glass, including surprises like a Garnacha from Calatayud (Spain) and a Cinsault from the California producer Frick. ZINGERMAN'S ROAD HOUSE Here is a restaurant that makes Manhattan jealous of us. Chef Alex Young just got his second Beard nomination with many of the foods your mom made every week—chicken, fish, mac and cheese, burgers and fries—the difference would be the preparation and the ingredients. He scours the country looking for the very best of everything—artisanal and heirloom cheeses, breads, meatsÉnothing here is less than perfect. They also have a line-up of regional foods your mom couldn't cook and many she never heard of. BBQ'd oysters, Texas cabrito (goat), and true Alaskan cod (versus those fish squares mom made). It's a bit pricey, but it is so damn good! ZODIAC CAFÉ Conspicuous consumption may be a core value at Neiman Marcus, but it’s tough to do at Zodiac, a classy little lunch café tucked away in a decisively inconspicuous niche on the third floor of this sprawling, sinfully exclusive emporium of extravagance. The NM philosophy of superb taste and big-ticket tariffs is mirrored in executive chef Dan Vernia’s comfortable, if lavish, menu. It’s lunch only, but that means much more than chicken salad (an odd but legendary Neiman standby); Vernia offers such innovative dishes as risotto with salmon, pan-seared striped bass with potato truffle flan and lobster sauce, lemon pepper fettucini with chicken sausage and baby vegetables; all succulent beyond measure. © 2008 Guide to Detroit, LLC |