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EUROPEAN ASSAGGI We’ve been impressed by the creative cuisine coming out of this bistro since it opened—and they opened our eyes to the fact that much of the Mediterranean Sea is surrounded by the European countries known for great cooking. Assaggi means “taste” in Italian, and while we don’t know the French translation we’re sure it’s on the money as well. There is magic going on in this kitchen, from the quality and variety of upscale ingredients to the inventiveness that goes into each dish. There are a few Mid-Eastern influences on the menu as well, and we would be remiss if we didn’t admit their wood-fired oven does put out the best pita bread we have ever tasted. Being in Ferndale, Assaggi is a bit more casual and lively than the four-star Freep rating might imply, which is one of the other things we love so much about it. BASTONE Amid the tidal wave of theme restaurants that have inundated Royal Oak, you’d think it would be hard to come up with fresh and alluring ideas. Bastone manages all of that with a personality-driven Belgian microbrewery. The five house-made beers are rustic, smooth and perfectly suited to an unusual menu that incorporates such Belgian covers as waterzooi and pissaladiere (which we tend to do a lot of while drinking Belgian beer). Hanger steak, a cut most Americans miss, is sensational as a sandwich or a main course; other beef dishes are made from lean, flavorful Belgian Blue. Mussels, of course, are prominently featured, and the servers appear to understand the subtleties both of the ingredients and the pronunciations. BOOCOO Boocoo took HOUR Detroit magazine’s Restaurant of the Year by ramrodding all pretenders with its combo of clever creations, zaftig flavors and perfectly piqued presentations, which (defying their Italian and French pedigrees) refuse to say, “I quit.” The bistro-style fare ensures well-conceived dishes with high-quality fresh ingredients at a price, which we workaday peasants can well afford. Try braised veal osso bucco, cassoulet and grilled steak au poivre, for which we offer beaucoup coos, and never boos. BRASSERIE ZINC RESTAURANT & WINE BAR Metalheads agree: A cool young clientele, a vague Mediterranean theme and a supremely dedicated management staff keep Zinc West Bloomfield’s most strikingly unusual culinary phenomenon. The kitchen at Zinc keeps late hours, and the flavors and textures are as good at one in the morning as they are at prime time. Osso bucco is a particular winner, as are the oxymoronic Belgian French fries. Service is casual but attentive, there’s an ambitious list of beer and wine, and best of all, Zinc’s price structure is more copper than platinum. CADIEUX CAFÉ Detroit’s home of feather bowling and great beer— really great beer— nobody brews like the Belgians. It’s the best place (and was at one time the only place) where Detroiters could pay homage to Chimay, a Trappist ale that many consider the best beer in the world. If you don’t like beer, go for the fruity-flavored lambics, which are as close as you’ll get to fine wine in the world of ales. Of course, nothing goes with great beer as well as Cadieux’s famous mussels, which are legendary. There are also Flemish and American dishes, and the family-owned neighborhood restaurant and bar just seems like it’s descended from one great family picnic. CAFÉ BON HOMME An intellectually rigorous menu, a blend of French, Continental and American, features such juicy gems as medallions of veal tenderloin with morels, persillade-encrusted roasted rack of lamb with wild mushroom risotto and a number of beautifully prepared fresh fish dishes. THE COOK'S SHOP The lighting is low, the walls are cobblestone and the classical music only adds to the elegance. From the Black Angus tenderloin to the pasta with wild mushrooms and escargot, the food here is always outstanding. COURTHOUSE BRASSERIE Very posh and definitely intimate; if you invited a bunch of friends some might have to wait in the car. It’s all about high-style cuisine and doting service. Don’t even think about getting in without a reservation. If the name brings about a grade-school tittering fit, you may want to stay home. CUISINE This artisinal charcuterie is a comfy, clandestine gem, European in roots and as American as apple pie—heirloom apples of course, infused with rare fruits and spices you have never tasted and topped with three flavors of ice cream from things you didn’t think they could turn into ice cream. Chef Paul Grosz takes risks and turns them into some of the most pleasurable plates you will experience. He takes the flavors of the world and interprets them in French and translates into a contemporary masterpiece. Grosz’s mad skills and magic bag of ingredients (which can be unlikely at times but always top-notch and never too many) create some of the most remarkable meals in Detroit dinedom. EUROPA BISTRO We’ve been dogging the heels of Chef Pascal Paviani for years, so we’re delighted to find him and his solid technique spreading French/Italian goodwill in this dainty, quainty, miniature Rochester Hills hideaway. Veal Tosca is light years beyond what you may have experienced before, as is the lamb rack. Wines are a steal at under five-dollars a glass, and Chef Pascal (who is both chef and artist) manifests commitment to detail at every turn. THE FRENCH GOURMET Leave the flask at home: After years of being dry, you can wash down Chef Linas’ made-from-scratch provincial with some fine French vintage—legally. A delightfully Francophile menu with a sublimely light touch with the sauces—you can enjoy house-made crépes, bouillabaisse, enticing salads such as duck or Niçoise, and a trés bien soufflé. HARLEQUIN CAFE The unsinkable chef Sherman Sharpe continues his reign of two-plus decades on Detroit’s eastside at his gustatory gem, tucked in the heart of West Village. He utilizes classic French culinary techniques to create his menu, and his warm and entertaining tableside manner whilst reciting the specials adds a unique and gracious personal touch to the dining experience. Stop in next door at Columbine’s Champagne Cellar for some cold bubbly and hot jazz. JOSEPHINE CRÊPERIE An artsy little neighborhood bistro with a big-city feel. We wish there were more places like this around; eating here feels as comfortable as a favorite pair of sandals. The food is freestyle French, and your dinner goes like this: You each order a different crépe, decide to trade bites, you are jealous of your dining partner’s order yet so happy with your choice you secretly hope they don’t want another bite. You wonder about all the other things you didn’t order. You order dessert, which is something you rarely do. The next day you want to go back. THE LARK The renowned Lark restaurant was originally designed to approximate one of the quaint country inns that owners Jim and Mary Lark had frequented in Portugal; the menu’s many circumflexes and cedillas betray a classical French bent in the kitchen, and Jim Lark’s self-avowed Prussian roots keeps the staff in perfection mode. Combined with their popular special dinners, including Spanish, Scottish and German, The Lark is the most pan-European restaurant in Detroit. Of course, there’s also Islamorada stone crab in key lime sauce (Floridian), honey-glazed crisp-roasted duck with sun-dried plums (Chinese), and the Lark’s signature rack of lamb Genghis Khan (pre-communist twelfth century Mongolian) to prove that The Lark has left no culinary stone unturned. And why not? After all, twenty-five award-filled years later, The Lark is still going strong, which is more than can be said for the Prussians. MACKINNON’S Like a European country inn, Mackinnon’s oozes with atmosphere; upscale but not uptight, there is oldworld charm and new-world ordering of a menu loaded with traditional and creatively updated French and Belgian inspiration. Beef bourguignon, salmon provencal and waterzooi, the irresistible Belgian mélange of the ocean’s greatest hits are just a dollop of the standouts that represent on this menu. There‘s American sustenance as well, hand cut steaks and modern innovations; Chef Ian Mackinnon appeals to all tastes with his artistry—a perfect balance of innovation, cultivation and salivation. PI RESTAURANT & LOUNGE 3.14159…is European inspired (mostly Mediterranean) and diverse. Barvarian styled pork chops and veal, Greek foods like saganaki and mousaka, plus other-side-of-the-pond favorites like fish and chips and pierogis—we weren’t sure what country barbequed pork wings were from. They share the same executive chef as nearby Il Posto. Good desserts—strangely, no pie.. TWINGO’S After a short closing, the funkiest bistro in the city, Twingo’s, has resurfaced as a new John Lopez joint. Twingo’s has always epitomized Cass Corridor chic and who better to carry on than Mr. Fine Dining of the minimum-wage celebrity set but Lopez? There are changes—it is now Eurocentric instead of French, as Shawn Mac is the king of this kitchen. The food will showcase the flavors of the left coast of Europe (Italy, Spain and France). Coq au vino, señor? Of course with Mac, you’ll also get American ingenuity, culinary cojones and hopefully a flatiron steak in the mix. Expect a total revamp of the old space but still the casual cool bistro vibe. EASTERN EUROPEAN AMADEUS CAFÉ & PATISSERIE Once you remember that Mozart was Polish, the menu makes more sense: house-made kielbasa, pierogi, irresistibly juicy stuffed cabbage, honey wine and a pastry case loaded down with Old World sweet-tooth delights. The place feels good, too; it’s snug and genial in a very European sort of way, and the gracious staff will make certain you don’t walk away hungry. At any rate, even if you get too cozy, you’ll wake up and smell the Viennese coffee. An Amadeus bonus is the influx of U of M music majors who stop in frequently to tickle the ivories in homage to the master. CHRISTINE’S CUISINE A fave hip haunt, big with the smart set. For the most part, an arty deli/diner with impressive daily specials, but Tina also takes an Eastern Euro soul-food spin—so special Gourmet magazine singled them out. Her pierogis should be hanging on the wall (instead of local artists like Jeremy Harvey). If you’re lucky, the Ferris show will be on, as her better half is often an entertaining sort. DAKOTA INN RATHSKELLER It’s always Oktoberfest at the Dakota Inn. Sing along with the live piano player while you drink great German beer and munch on knacks and brats. Haus specialties are the four kinds of schnitzels and amazing Reuben soup. They have all the other authentic German entrées, usually accompanied with mashed potatoes, spätzle or the amazing potato pancakes, all haus-made. The building itself is a true treasure; art deco meets the old country—it’s one of the most interesting architectural gems in the city. Check out the plasterwork on the walls, this kind of craftsmanship no longer exists. HUNGARIAN RHAPSODY The old world flavors and richness of Hungarian cuisine is so utterly satisfying it makes you feel like royalty. The Rhapsody is probably the most popular restaurant Downriver, mainly because people will drive for miles for this all-too-rare cuisine. It’s a family operation with a made-from-scratch sense of caring and pride; we have yet to find something on this menu we have not fallen in love with. You will waddle away satiated and satisfied, even if you foolishly choose not to top off with the handmade pastries and cakes (you can always get them to go). One of our favorite restaurants in the entire metro area. JACOBY’S 100 years—that’s old. Jacoby’s has been selling schnitzel, sauerbraten, and the “wurst” type of sausages in the same downtown location since 1904. The menu is loaded with Rhineland fare as bona fide as the tin ceilings are to the building. It’s on the smallish side, the tall tables designed for stein tipping and mingling. They’ve always had a remarkable bier selection, with a large assortment of German brands. MARCUS FAMILY RESTAURANT Built in 1929, Marcus is famed for the crazy burger served on a hot dog bun. But just like a lot of their clientele, they’ve moved out to Sterling Heights and brought a bit of the homeland with them. Look for “Polka Food” on the menu—stuffed cabbage, city chicken and pierogis that can only be homemade. POLISH VILLAGE Hearty Hamtramck Polish home cookin’ at its very best. This favorite is a little hard to find since it is off the beaten path, but definitely worth the Mapquest search. If President Clinton’s motorcade can find it, so can you. Real food for prices close to what you might spend on a combo meal at a drive-thru window. Their amazing menu rotates daily and has so many choices you’ll have a hard time choosing, so go with people who will share. On any given day there might be pork chops, chicken (city or fried) and there’s always the incredible pierogis, potato pancakes and signature soups, such as dill pickle, which is way better than it sounds. POLONIA The sinister, socialist-sounding ‘Workman’s Cooperative’ (as Polonia Restaurant was formerly known) no longer exists, but the spirit of proletarian pricing, neighborly jawboning and down-to-earth service still imbues the place, and countless leaders in the local business community can be seen in the comfortable booths and tables, enjoying meals beneath the detailed murals depicting Polish country life. Stuffed cabbage, kielbasa with sauerkraut, and pierogis are all homemade (including the sausage), and to be had at the reasonable prices that are part of the Hamtramck vibe. If you are brave enough, try the czarnina (duck blood soup), which is loaded with dried fruit and makes for a truly authentic flavor experience. POLONUS A bit of Gdansk in Gdotte. Located on the north end of Wyandotte, the venerable Polonus has been preparing the real Polska for decades, catering to the discriminating Polish-American downriver-audience, who have always wanted to keep their velveteen sauces and magical grandma-approved latkes to themselves. Can you say, “Smaczne”? RICHTER’S CHALET A German restaurant without Bier? You know the food has to be off the hook when you get this much Achtung without it! For 30 years the Chalet has been winning statewide awards and packing ’em in with authentic Teutonic culinaria that storms all over your taste buds. Sauerbraten and sausages, it’s all here, plus there is enough American goodwill to make it a safe bet for fussy families and businessmen (such as a most excellent Monte Cristo). Credit Herr Richter, who learned his pastry skills in the old country, and made cakes for the Kennedys, Hoffa and the Fords. This accounts for the sublime strudels and the not-so-German but oh-so-good beef Wellington UNDER THE EAGLE An appearance on the Food Network confirmed what we have known all along: UTE is special. It’s Old World all the way. All the Polish favorites are served, from pierogis to stuffed cabbage and specialties like their famous duck’s blood soup. © 2008 Guide to Detroit, LLC |