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SOUTHERN BACK IN THE DAY Our favorite drive-through soul hole is former Little Caesar’s, now offering made-from-scratch soul staples from behind the postmodern genius of bulletproof glass. It’s take-away or parking-lot dining only, but you’ll be assured of better-than-average mains like catfish and fried chicken, and sometimes superlative sides like greens, and most especially, the standard-for-excellence mac and cheese that’s been garnering raves since they opened. BEANS & CORNBREAD The cozy new Sidebar lounge heats things up, cranking up the ambience with a little martini bar polish. Beans & Cornbread took soul food out of the storefront and into the 21st century, with an upscale but relaxed bistro setting. Proving simple ingredients can equal complex cuisine, B & C started racking up “best of awards” from Metro Times, HOUR, and pretty much everyone else. B & C hits the high notes, yet remains down-home—heirloom recipes for modern tastes. Can’t-miss specialties include tangy and perfectly seasoned pork chops, salmon croquettes, and deep fried tempura-style shrimp, backed up with their signature cornbread basket and a list of soulful sides you can pick and choose from. And on Sundays, there is a Southern brunch—peach cobbler, waffles, and cheesy grits made all the better with mimosas and Bellinis. BRENDA’S BEANS & GREENS This is an after-church-crowd favorite, with all the assertive Southern classics you not only expect, but crave. That means that besides beans and greens, you’ll find at least a dozen deep-fried, gravy-smothered, sauced-up home-style favorites that will make your mouth water in biblical proportions before you get to that tray of peach cobbler. It’s cafeteria-style, which means you wish it were all-you-could-eat so you could try everything on the steam tables. Instead, you’ll just have to settle for whatever you pick, which will not only be great, it will end up being all-you-could-have-eaten-anyway. CAFÉ D’MONGO’S The barbeque out front on the sidewalk attests. OK, the hipsters who squeeze in here really don’t come for the food, they come for the ambience. But for just over ten bucks you can get a half chicken and three sides if you happen to be hungry on a Friday, the only night they are open. FLOOD’S One of Detroit’s milestone meeting spots, Flood’s has been the in place to mix and mingle with the best of them for years. Known for great music: lively bar and down-home eats with an uptown vibe. KINGDOM MEN’S CAFE All-you-can-eat soul food? Our prayers have been answered. Praise be to the good people at the historic East Lake Baptist Church, at least for the three days a week that the buffet is available. These bodacious Baptists offer such a glorious buffet that you may be tempted to gobble down your crackling-good fried chicken, smothered pork chops and silky catfish and all those lip-smacking desserts before you even get back to your table; hold on, though, there’s plenty more where that came from. Service is outstanding and as often as weather permits, Chef Eric Giles barbecues vinegar-sprinkled pork ribs outside on a genuine, American-made industrial drum grill. Hallelujah and pass the peach cobbler. MAGNOLIA Almost hidden in Detroit’s Rivertown you’ll find bold brass doors and, inside, an onyx entry and luxurious iridescent curtains draping the walls. Magnolia has the most elegant setting for sweet upscale soul in the city. This is not the typical family- plated rather than piled. Not to say they’re skimpy—you’ll waddle home if you clean your Sunday meatloaf plate. The desserts are top tray contenders, like the Mile High Mississippi Mud Pie and a bourbon-sauced bread pudding (which took honors at the annual Garden Party). MOTOWN SOUL FOOD CAFÉ Located in the opulent Fisher Building, Motown Soul Food Café is soul for the mouth and ears, playing Motown greats and serving soul food favorites. Chicken and waffles, smothered pork chops and fried okra go so fine with Marvin Gaye. Mercy, mercy, me, some things are what they used to be. STEVE’S SOUL FOOD In case you didn’t, Steve is the mom you wish you’d had. His cafeteria-style, deep Southern classic African-American comfort food is all that; so quintessential has this destination (in a somewhat squirrelly corner of the city) become in the Detroit vittles vivisection that John Kerry made a pit stop here during his 2004 campaign for the presidency. Rest assured, Steve’s mac and cheese, peach cobbler, grits and gravy and exemplary short ribs have a track record that blows Kerry’s out of the tub. If you didn’t experience these delicacies as a kid, Steve’s is a memory maker for tomorrow. CAJUN BAYOU GRILL Chef Ernest Prokos kicks it up a notch inside Belleville’s answer to an open-bore Mardi Gras blow-out; not bad for Belleville, a community better known for Cosmic Bowling (look it up) and dreary grease pits. Cooking classes are occasionally offered, so you can learn how to prepare things using ingredients you’ll never find in metro Detroit. FISHBONE’S RHYTHM KITCHEN CAFE 29244 Northwestern Hwy., Southfield 23722 Jefferson, St. Clair Shores If you’ve been thinking Fishbone’s is merely a Cajun place, try taking a step into the 21st century. Fishbone’s has one of the best lines (hooks and sinkers, too) on fresh fish in the metro area. When you are this popular, not only can you afford to be great, you have to be. There are steaks, salads, sandwiches and most of whatever else your heart may desire, but the seafood is a standout. The menu is loaded with underwater edibles, with across-the-board preparations from deep-fried to fancier presentations like seared ahi. Shellfish abound; they prepare shrimp more ways than anyone and live Maine lobsters and Alaskan king crab are always done to perfection. It’s a celebration of fish; there is even a full-on sushi bar—they could go fin to fin with Benihana. St. Clair Shores has a massive New Orleans–style courtyard complete with fireplace, gas lanterns and a huge bar—it is one of the most happening places in Michigan. HOWE’S BAYOU Reminds us of the skinny little joints that are ubiquitous in the Big Easy. There’s a lot more here than red beans and rice—ask for the gumbo or superb jambalaya, both have a full share of meat, sausage and shellfish (rather than the typical rice bowl with hot sauce some might serve). Actually, the Cajun and Creole cookery of this tight little kitchen looks, smells, and tastes like the real thing, so just get the sampler plate and enjoy it all. It’s in Ferndale, and it has a very big bar with very good bartenders so it can get a little bit like Bourbon Street (that is, boisterous and crowded), especially on weekend nights. M’DEARS CREOLE COOKING Home cooking from way down. The selection isn’t huge, but the prices don’t require a big wad, and the recipes have been in the Snyder family for generations...well, two. The gumbo is loaded with the good stuff: shrimp, crab, oysters, sausage and ham. © 2008 Guide to Detroit, LLC |